Paines Ford & Pōhara
At the crag
How to look after the rock and the bolts. Climbs are getting worn and polished, and that will only increase as climbing gets more popular. Chalk is a super-fine abrasive, especially with rubber, and dirt on shoes does the same.
Protecting the rock
Keep your shoes clean
Dirt polishes limestone. Wipe your shoes before you step onto the route.
Tick marks
- Clean the chalk off after every ascent.
- If you insist on ticking, keep them subtle and clean as you finish.
- Brush side to side with a natural bristle brush, then blow the dust off the hold.
Water bottles
Water canisters are left at the crag for washing chalk and dirt off the rock.
- At the end of the day, rinse the dirt and chalk off the holds you used.
- Scrub with a natural bristle brush while it's wet, then let the hold dry before anyone climbs on it.
- Refill the canisters if you can, and put them back where you found them.
Natural bristle brushes only
- Use a natural bristle brush. Nylon brushes polish the rock, and wire brushes scratch and polish it.
Bolts and anchors
Top-rope on your own gear
Running laps through the anchor rings wears them out. Clip your own quickdraws or a top-rope setup for laps, and only thread the anchor for the last lower-off. Keep your rope off the dirt and your gear will last longer too.
Report problems
Loose bolt, spinning hanger, worn anchor or loose rock? Email [email protected] with the route name, and a photo if you can.
Protecting the area
Use the toilets on the way in
Arriving at the crag and peeing straight away is thoughtless, and it smells.
Brush off your chalk
Holds and tick marks, on every route you climbed.
Take everything out
Rubbish, tape and food scraps, yours or not.
Every bolt here was paid for by climbers.
It costs about $25 to purchase and install a stainless ringbolt. All the work is voluntary.